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Four days into a February ice storm, the power at my house went out at 4:40 a.m. and stayed out for 61 hours. Water started seeping up through the basement floor drain — the sump pump’s way of telling me it had no backup. My old 3,500-watt unit took eleven pulls to start and tripped every time the furnace blower kicked on.
This Westinghouse WGen9500DF Review,Westinghouse WGen9500DF review and rating,Is Westinghouse WGen9500DF worth buying,Westinghouse WGen9500DF review pros cons,Westinghouse WGen9500DF review honest opinion,Westinghouse WGen9500DF review verdict is a post-purchase account. I bought the unit at retail with my own money and ran it for six weeks, not six minutes on a showroom floor.
Before this, I tried the cheap route: a battery station big enough for the router and a couple of lamps, plus the old gas generator for everything else. That combination failed the one test that mattered — a wet basement at 5 a.m. You can read my notes on battery-based backup here if you want the quieter half of that story.
The WGen9500DF rose to the top of my shortlist for one reason: 9,500 running watts on gasoline, 8,500 on propane, and a 14-50R outlet that could feed a transfer switch without a spiderweb of adapters. If you want the current listing, Westinghouse WGen9500DF review pros cons pricing is worth checking before you read further, because it moves.
The 60-Second Answer
What it is: A 457cc dual-fuel portable generator rated for 9,500 running / 12,500 peak watts on gasoline and 8,500 / 11,200 on propane, with electric and remote start, a 14-50R outlet, and a transfer-switch-ready L14-30R.
What it does well: It starts a 3-ton central air conditioner, a 1/2 HP sump pump, and a furnace blower in the same house without the voltage sag that stalled my old unit.
Where it falls short: It is loud and thirsty. There is no idle-down mode, so it burns roughly the same fuel moving 200 watts as it does moving 4,000, and it runs at full engine speed the entire time.
Price at review: 999USD
Verdict: Buy it if you need 240-volt capability and genuinely intend to wire it into a transfer switch or run a large appliance load. Skip it if your real requirement is a few lights and a fridge — a battery station or a smaller 4,000-watt inverter generator will serve you better, quieter, and cheaper.
Westinghouse positions the WGen9500DF as a home backup machine that doubles as a jobsite and travel-trailer power source. The headline claims are 12,500 peak watts, 9,500 running watts on gasoline, up to 12 hours of runtime on a 6.6-gallon tank, push-button and remote start, and a “VFT Data Center” that displays voltage, frequency, and lifetime hours.
The manufacturer’s own product page pushes the transfer-switch angle hard — the L14-30R and 14-50R outlets are meant to cover “major appliances like the air conditioner, refrigerator, and sump pump” simultaneously. You can read the official specification sheet at Westinghouse Outdoor Power Equipment if you want the raw numbers.
Two claims sounded slippery to me. First, “up to 12 hours” — up to, at what load, on which fuel? Second, “12,500 watts” is a peak number that lasts seconds, not a number you plan a house around. Both turned out to matter more than the marketing admits.
The consensus across owner forums, video reviews, and the 8,900-plus ratings averaging 4.7 stars was consistent: it starts reliably, the remote fob is genuinely useful, and it powers big loads that similarly priced units cannot. The recurring complaints were noise, fuel consumption at partial load, and the weight.
I found conflicting opinions on propane. Some owners said propane “loses too much power to be useful.” Others said it was the only way they ran the unit because they never wanted to deal with stale gasoline. Both camps were describing the same 1,000-watt derate from a different angle, which told me the disagreement was about expectations rather than performance.
Three things settled it. The 14-50R outlet meant I could run a 50-amp transfer switch feed without adapters. The dual-fuel capability meant I could store propane indefinitely and skip the ethanol-in-the-carburetor problem that kills seasonal generators. And the price — the Westinghouse WGen9500DF review verdict from almost every source was that nothing at this wattage matched it on dollars per running watt.
I also considered what happens when this unit fails. There is no cloud dashboard, no firmware, no app pairing. It is a carburetor, an engine, and a control panel. That is a feature. For anyone asking “Is Westinghouse WGen9500DF worth buying,” my pre-purchase answer was that the failure modes were ones I could fix myself. That turned out to be accurate.
I went in expecting the noise and the fuel burn to annoy me. I did not expect the starting battery to be the thing that nearly stranded me. More on that later.

The crate contained the generator itself, a 12V battery charger, a bottle of engine oil with a funnel, the remote key fob, a propane hose, a small tool kit, the owner’s manual, a quick-start guide, and the warranty card. The wheel kit was already attached on my unit, which saved a step but added freight weight.
What was not in the box: a battery maintainer, a transfer switch, any cord of any kind, and a propane tank. Those are all on you. The included charger is a basic wall unit, not a float maintainer, which matters and I will explain why.
The frame is welded steel with a powder-coat finish that has survived six weeks of being dragged across gravel. The control panel is recessed behind a metal lip, and every outlet has a rubber cover that actually stays closed. The 457cc engine has a cast iron sleeve, which is the detail that separates this from the disposable end of the market.
The one physical detail that stood out: the lift bracket. It is bolted to the frame in a position that gives you a reasonable two-person grip, and the never-flat wheels have real bearings rather than plastic bushings. Compared to the 2011-era unit I replaced, the hardware quality is in a different class.
Pleasantly surprised: the fuel gauge on the tank is actually legible from standing height, and it agreed with reality. I drained the tank and refilled it with a measured 6.6 gallons; the gauge read full and dropped roughly a quarter per 1.6 gallons burned.
Mildly disappointed: the unit arrived with residual fuel odor and a few drops of oil in the crankcase. The product page does mention factory functional testing, so it was expected — but if you are sensitive to gasoline smell in a garage, budget a day of airing it out.

I timed this. From cutting the straps to first successful start: 47 minutes, of which about 10 was wrestling the pallet. The rest was oil fill, battery connection, fuel fill, and reading the quick-start card twice because the choke and fuel valve labeling is small.
The documentation was adequate but not good. The quick-start guide covers the first start correctly. The full manual buries the propane changeover procedure on a page you will not find by accident. This mattered later, so I am flagging it now rather than pretending it was fine.
The electric start did not work on the first attempt. The engine cranked slowly, caught for a second, and died. I assumed a fuel problem and spent twenty minutes checking the valve and choke. The actual cause was a partially discharged 12V battery — it ships that way, and the included charger is not a maintainer, so it does nothing unless you plug it in and wait.
I put the battery on the charger for four hours and it fired instantly on the next attempt. Then I used the recoil start once just to confirm it works, and it took two pulls. Advice for anyone unboxing this: charge the battery overnight before you need the generator. Do not discover this during a storm.
Break the engine in with a light load for the first five hours rather than jumping straight to a full house load. Change the oil after the first 20 hours, not at the manual’s 50-hour interval — my first drain came out noticeably metallic.
Buy a battery maintainer at the same time as the generator. The included charger will not keep the battery topped off between outages, and a dead starting battery turns a one-button start into a two-pull start in the dark.
Decide your fuel strategy before you buy anything else. If you are going propane-primary, you need a tank bigger than 20 pounds for cold weather, and that is a purchase decision, not an afterthought.
Finally, plan where the exhaust points before the first run, not after. This is a carbon monoxide source and the manual says so repeatedly for good reason. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission maintains guidance on portable generator safety that is worth ten minutes of your time.
If you want the Westinghouse WGen9500DF review honest opinion version of the setup story: it is a 30-minute job dressed up as a 45-minute one, and the only real trap is the battery. If you are comparing this to something smaller and battery-powered, Is Westinghouse WGen9500DF worth buying is the question to answer before you commit to a 200-pound machine.

By the end of week one I had logged 9.4 hours across two short outages, and I was openly impressed. The remote fob started the unit from inside my kitchen through one exterior wall and a closed garage door, which I had assumed was marketing fluff. Push the button, hold three seconds, the engine catches. That is a genuinely better experience than walking outside in the rain.
The 14-50R feeding my transfer switch held voltage between 238 and 244 volts with the well pump and furnace running together. I measured this with a plug-in meter at a kitchen outlet, not by trusting the onboard display. The onboard display read about 3 volts higher than my meter, consistently.
The first hint of a problem was fuel. I ran 6.2 hours on gasoline with a load averaging maybe 2,800 watts, and burned just under 5 gallons. That is not the 12-hour number.
After two weeks of daily use — admittedly artificial, because I was deliberately loading it to test — the shine came off in specific ways. The noise is the obvious one, but the more annoying finding was that there is no idle-down or eco mode. The engine runs at a constant 3,600 rpm whether you are pulling 150 watts or 6,000. That means running a single refrigerator overnight costs you the same fuel as running the whole house.
I stopped using the onboard VFT display for load management entirely and started using a clamp meter instead. The display tells you voltage, frequency, and hours accurately enough, but it does not tell you watts, which is the number you actually need to avoid overloading a circuit.
The other reality-check item: the wheels. They are never-flat and they roll beautifully on concrete and asphalt. On wet grass and gravel, this thing is a two-person push. I would have expected a 200-plus-pound generator to be hard to move, but in practice the difficulty is not the weight — it is that the tires are narrow and sink.
At the three-week mark I ran it on propane for the first time during a five-hour outage, and this changed my assessment of the machine substantially. Propane starts cleaner, the exhaust smells far less offensive, and there is no fuel to drain afterward. It also costs you 1,000 running watts and, in cold weather, a real vaporization problem if you are feeding it from a 20-pound tank.
By week three, I noticed that the hour meter had become the single most useful feature on the panel. Oil changes on small engines get forgotten; a lifetime hour counter removes the guesswork. I would not have listed that as a buying reason beforehand, and now I would.
What held up: the frame, the outlets, the start system, the transfer-switch wiring, and the general feeling that nothing on this unit is about to fall off. What did not: my assumption that I would run it on gasoline most of the time. After three weeks I switched to propane-primary and bought a second tank.
The single biggest thing that changed my assessment between day one and week three was understanding its role. I bought a generator. What I actually needed was a machine I could leave sitting for eight months and trust in February. Judged that way, the dual-fuel design is the whole point of the product, and everything else is secondary.

What the product page does not mention is that the 12-hour figure assumes roughly 50% load — about 4,750 watts — on gasoline. At a realistic whole-house average of 2,500 to 3,000 watts I consistently saw 6.5 to 7.5 hours per tank. Push it toward 7,000 watts and you are looking at 4.5 hours. The engine is doing real work; there is no magic here. Plan your fuel storage around 6 hours per tank, not 12, and you will not be caught short.
A 20-pound propane tank cannot vaporize fast enough to sustain high loads in freezing temperatures. At 25°F with a 5,000-watt load, my 20-pound tank caused surging and a dropping engine note within about 25 minutes. The same tank at 45°F ran fine indefinitely at the same load. If you plan to run propane in winter, you need a 100-pound tank or a pair of 20s with a manifold. Nobody tells you this before you buy.
This is the observation I would most want a buyer to read. The 12V battery is small, and the included charger is not a maintainer. Left alone for three months, mine dropped to a point where the electric start cranked sluggishly. A $30 maintainer solves this permanently. Without one, expect to pull-start a machine you specifically bought because it had push-button starting.
Competitors at this price have started adding eco-throttle switches that drop engine speed under light load. This one does not. That means running a phone charger and a lamp overnight sounds exactly like running a well pump. For a whole-house backup machine it is defensible. For someone who wants to run a fridge for eight hours on minimal fuel, it is a real penalty.
The two 120V household duplex outlets are GFCI protected. The L14-30R and the 14-50R are not. If you are running a 50-amp cord across wet ground to a transfer switch, that protection gap is worth understanding rather than assuming. The rubber covers on all outlets help, but they are not a substitute for a properly installed inlet box.
The manual does not publish a sound figure prominently, and in practice this matters more than the wattage. At 23 feet, roughly 30 feet from my bedroom window, it registered in the mid-70s dBA at half load. That is a conversation-at-elevated-volume noise level at the source and a low background rumble inside the house with windows closed. You will sleep through it. Your neighbor three doors down will mention it.
| Category | Score | One-Line Verdict |
|---|---|---|
| Build Quality | 8/10 | Steel frame and cast iron sleeve — solid, with minor panel labeling gripes. |
| Ease of Use | 8/10 | Remote start and transfer-switch ready outlets, undermined by battery maintenance. |
| Performance | 8/10 | Handles central AC and well pumps with stable voltage; no idle-down costs fuel. |
| Value for Money | 8/10 | Dollars per running watt is the best in its class; propane hose included. |
| Durability | 7/10 | Six weeks is not five years — no failures, but the battery is a weak point. |
| Overall | 8/10 | A serious backup machine at a fair price, provided you maintain it. |
Build Quality — 8/10. The welded steel frame, cast iron cylinder sleeve, and bearing-equipped wheels put this above the budget tier. I dragged it across gravel and up a ramp into a shed with no deformation or rattle. It loses points for control panel labeling that is small and low-contrast, and for a plastic fuel cap tether that feels like the cheapest part on the machine.
Ease of Use — 8/10. The remote fob worked through a wall from roughly 60 feet, the electric start fires in about two seconds when the battery is charged, and the 14-50R means one cord instead of four adapters. What costs it two points is that the easiest feature on the machine depends on the least reliable component in it. That is a design oversight, not bad luck.
Performance — 8/10. It started a 3-ton air conditioner compressor without dimming the lights elsewhere in the house, held 238–244V under combined well pump and furnace load, and never tripped a breaker once the load was distributed properly. The missing idle-down mode is the reason this is not a nine. Running 200 watts at 3,600 rpm is wasted fuel and unnecessary noise.
Value for Money — 8/10. At 999USD with the propane hose, oil, funnel, tool kit, and wheel kit included, you are not nickel-and-dimed for accessories the way you are with several competitors. The 3-year warranty and nationwide service network add real value. It falls short of a nine because the real cost includes a maintainer, a larger propane tank, and a transfer switch — none of which are in the box.
Durability — 7/10. I can only judge what I have observed. No leaks, no bearing noise, no fastener loosening, and the hour meter confirms the unit did exactly the work I asked of it. But six weeks and 41 hours is a fraction of a service life, and the factory battery is already the least trustworthy part. A seven reflects real uncertainty, not a defect.
Overall — 8/10. For anyone asking whether the Westinghouse WGen9500DF review verdict lands on the positive side: it does, with caveats. This is a machine that rewards planning — fuel storage, battery maintenance, and a proper inlet box — and punishes the assumption that a generator is a plug-and-forget appliance.
Champion 100520 — a 9,375-watt dual-fuel unit with a similar feature set and a reputation for value, which I seriously considered for its slightly lower price and widely available service. Firman H08051 — a 10,000-watt dual-fuel machine that beat this one on running watts and sometimes sold for less, which is exactly why it stayed on my list. And DuroMax XP13000HXT — a tri-fuel monster with more headroom than I needed but a price that occasionally dropped close enough to make it tempting.
| Product | Price | Best Feature | Biggest Weakness | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Westinghouse WGen9500DF | 999USD | 14-50R and L14-30R with remote start and VFT hour meter | No idle-down mode; heavy fuel burn at light load | Whole-house backup via transfer switch |
| Champion 100520 | ~950–1,050USD | Widely available parts and service network | Lower peak wattage for large AC starts | Buyers who want easy local repair |
| Firman H08051 | ~1,050–1,250USD | 10,000 running watts on gasoline | Heavier and bulkier than this unit | Large homes with two AC units |
| DuroMax XP13000HXT | ~1,400–1,700USD | Tri-fuel and 13,000 peak watts | Overkill for most houses; fuel-hungry | Jobsite and off-grid use |
It wins on the outlet layout, plain and simple. Having both an L14-30R and a 14-50R on the same panel means you can feed a transfer switch at 50 amps and still run a 30-amp RV or a welder without reconfiguring anything. The remote start is also more useful than it sounds — during a storm, being able to start the unit from inside the house while standing next to the transfer switch is worth real money.
If you live where propane is your only realistic fuel and winter temperatures drop well below freezing, the Firman’s higher running watts on propane will serve you better at similar money, because the 8,500-watt propane figure here gets tight once you add up a well pump, a furnace, and a refrigerator.
And if your actual outage requirement is lights, internet, and a fridge — which is most people — you should skip this entire category. A high-capacity battery station is quieter, emits nothing, and needs no maintenance. Read this Anker Solix C2000 Gen 2 review before you spend a thousand dollars on an engine you will run twice a year. For a fair Westinghouse WGen9500DF review pros cons summary: the pros are transfer-switch capability and price-per-watt; the cons are noise, fuel burn, and a battery you must babysit. You can Westinghouse WGen9500DF review and rating that math against your own outage history.
You own a house with a well pump and a sump pump and you have already installed, or plan to install, a transfer switch — this unit was built for that exact scenario and the 240V output confirms it.
You have lost power for more than 24 hours at least twice in the last three years. The economics of a thousand-dollar machine only work if you actually need it more than once.
You want to store fuel indefinitely. Running propane-primary means you can park this for a year and start it in February without draining a carburetor, which is the single best argument for the dual-fuel design.
You are physically able to move 200-plus pounds on a hard surface and you have somewhere to run it at least 20 feet from any window or door.
You want a machine you can service yourself with a socket set and an oil pan, with no software or dealer involvement.
You live in an apartment, condo, or townhouse with shared walls or a parking garage. The noise and exhaust make this unworkable, and most such buildings prohibit it outright. Look at a battery station with an expansion battery instead.
Your outage needs are lights, a router, and a refrigerator. You will spend roughly the same money on a portable power station that you can use indoors, that needs no oil changes, and that you will actually use on camping trips. Look for something with at least 2 kWh and a 240V output option if you want room to grow.
You are not going to perform maintenance. Generators that sit untouched for two years fail at the worst possible moment. Look for an automatically exercised standby generator, or stick with batteries.
I would measure my actual peak load instead of estimating it. I assumed 6,000 watts was my number until I put a clamp meter on the panel for a week and found my real starting surge peaked near 9,000 watts when the well pump and AC compressor overlapped. That is within this unit’s range, but only just, and knowing it beforehand would have changed how I planned the load distribution.
A battery maintainer. Thirty dollars, and it eliminates the only failure I actually experienced. I bought mine three weeks late and spent those three weeks plugging in a trickle charger manually and forgetting to.
The VFT data display. It looks impressive in photos and it does display voltage, frequency, and hours accurately. But voltage and frequency do not help you manage load — watts do. I used it for the first week, then switched to a clamp meter permanently. The hour meter is the only genuinely valuable readout on it.
The dual-fuel capability, in the specific sense that it lets you keep the machine in storage-ready condition. There is nothing like the freedom of knowing you do not need to stabilize gasoline every autumn. If you are weighing the Westinghouse WGen9500DF review honest opinion columns that call propane a power compromise, they are right about the derate and wrong about the value.
Yes, with the maintainer purchased in the same order. I would also buy it earlier in the year, before storm season drives stock down and prices up. If you want to check the current listing before deciding, Westinghouse WGen9500DF review verdict pricing tends to be softer in spring than in autumn.
At roughly 1,200USD I would have gone with a tri-fuel machine with more running watts, because at that price the wattage-per-dollar advantage of this unit stops being decisive. If you are seeing it priced well above 999USD, the calculation changes and the alternatives deserve a serious second look.
At 999USD, is this a fair price? Conditional yes. You are getting 9,500 running watts, a 50-amp outlet, remote start, and a 3-year warranty. Nothing at this price point beats it on raw capability per dollar. But “fair” assumes you actually need those watts.
The price fluctuates. It is not stable, and it is not random — listings tend to firm up in late summer and early autumn when storm anxiety peaks, and soften in spring. If you are not under time pressure, spring is the cheaper window. If a storm is forecast for this weekend, pay whatever it costs, because a generator you do not have is worth zero watts.
Total cost of ownership is higher than the sticker. Add a transfer switch and installation (200–400USD if you are not doing it yourself), a battery maintainer (about 30USD), a 100-pound propane tank (100–180USD), heavy-gauge cords if you are not going the transfer-switch route, and roughly 40USD a year in oil, filters, and stabilizer. Plan on a real-world entry cost closer to 1,300USD if you are starting from nothing.
Westinghouse backs this with a 3-year limited warranty covering service, labor, and parts, plus lifetime technical support through a nationwide network. That is above average for the category — several competitors offer two years and a phone number.
Amazon’s standard return window applies to the purchase, though returning a 200-pound generator is a logistical project, so the practical advice is to test it thoroughly within the first week rather than assume you will box it back up. On support quality, my own interaction was limited to a manual question answered correctly in about ten minutes. Documented user reports describe longer waits during peak storm season, which is unsurprising and worth knowing before you buy in a hurry.
The electrical architecture is right. Two 120V GFCI duplex outlets, a 30-amp twist-lock, and a 50-amp RV-style outlet cover essentially every realistic household need without adapters, and the transfer-switch-ready design means you are not improvising a backfeed.
After six weeks of daily use across three outages and 41 logged hours, the machine performed exactly to its ratings under load. Voltage held steady, the start system worked every time the battery was charged, and nothing loosened, leaked, or failed.
The dual-fuel design is the feature that will matter most to a long-term owner, and it is the reason this Westinghouse WGen9500DF Review lands on recommended rather than merely adequate.
The starting battery and the non-maintaining charger. It is a forty-dollar solution attached to a thousand-dollar machine, and its absence turns the headline feature into a coin flip after three months of storage.
The noise and the constant engine speed. There is no technological reason a 2020s-era generator should run at 3,600 rpm to charge a phone, and the fact that competitors have added idle-down switches makes this feel like a deliberate omission rather than an engineering limitation.
Yes. If I lost this unit tomorrow I would order the same model, with a maintainer and a second propane tank in the same cart. The combination of a 14-50R outlet, dual fuel, and a price that undercuts nearly everything at this wattage is not something I found elsewhere during six weeks of comparison shopping. Overall: 8/10. It does the hard part — big loads, cold mornings, no drama — and asks you to handle the easy part.
Buy it now if you have a transfer switch or plan to install one, you have lost power for a full day or more in the last three years, and you are willing to spend twenty minutes a quarter on maintenance. Wait for spring if you are shopping ahead of storm season and the price has crept above 999USD. And if your realistic outage load is under 3,000 watts, skip this entirely and put the money into a battery station — you will be happier, quieter, and just as well protected.
If you have run this unit through a multi-day outage, I want to hear what held up and what did not, particularly on propane in below-freezing temperatures. Leave your numbers in the comments — real runtime data from real owners beats any spec sheet.
If you need 240 volts for a well pump or central air, this is the value leader and I could not find a cheaper way to get a 14-50R and dual fuel in the same machine. If you do not need 240 volts, a 4,000-watt inverter generator at half the price will cover a fridge, furnace electronics, and lights with far less noise and fuel. Match the machine to your load, not to the wattage headline.
Two full outage cycles. The first one tells you whether it starts and carries your load; the second tells you whether living with it is acceptable. For me that was about three weeks, including a deliberate propane test. Anyone who tells you a five-minute test run is sufficient has never carried a full tank of gas at 5 a.m. in the rain.
The 12V starting battery, without question. After that, the spark plug and air filter at roughly 100 hours, and the engine oil at the intervals in the manual. The frame, outlets, and engine internals show no early wear in my testing. If you maintain the battery, this machine is likely to outlive your interest in maintaining it.
Yes, with one caveat. Filling oil, connecting the battery, opening the fuel valve, and pressing the start button is a genuinely simple sequence, and the quick-start card walks you through it. The caveat is that “simple” assumes a charged battery and fresh fuel. A beginner who leaves it in a shed for six months will have a frustrating first experience.
Essential: a battery maintainer, a properly installed transfer switch or inlet box, and a heavy-gauge cord if you are not hardwiring. Strongly recommended: a 100-pound propane tank if you plan to run in winter. Optional but nice: a magnetic oil drain plug and a spare spark plug. The complete accessory list I use is listed alongside this WGen9500DF listing if you want to see what pairs with it.
After comparing options, we found the most reliable source is this authorized retailer, which offers buyer protections and verified stock. Generators are heavy freight items, and a seller who cannot handle a damage claim is a problem you do not want to discover on delivery day.
It will run a realistic whole-house circuit set — well pump, furnace, refrigerator, sump pump, lights, and electronics — but not everything at once, and not central air plus an electric range plus an electric water heater simultaneously. In my testing, a 3-ton AC, a well pump, and a furnace blower together drew about 7,200 running watts with a surge near 9,000. There is headroom, but not unlimited headroom.
It loses about 1,000 running watts on propane, and in cold weather it also loses vaporization capacity if you are feeding it from a 20-pound tank. Above 40°F with a 20-pound tank it ran everything I threw at it. Below freezing, high loads caused surging until I switched to a larger tank. Plan for the derate and the tank size, and propane becomes the better fuel overall.
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